Written by Mark Hurley
Photography by Karl Phillips

In recent years, downtown Roanoke has amassed a score of fine eateries as restaurateurs reclaim the area as a hot spot for foodies. With many exceptional restaurants opening, Roanokers today struggle with the decision of where to go when hunger strikes (a good problem to have, I’ll admit).

Another restaurant to add to the list is Nico’s Ristorante & Cafe, located on Campbell Avenue across from Twist & Turns. Owner Joe Puglieses (also owner of Sal’s in Radford) and chef Michael Gucciardo have renovated the spot where Italiano’s Restaurant used to be, recreating a cozy, elegant atmosphere and a taste that is 100% Little Italy in New York City.

Puglieses and Gucciardo have delved into their Italian heritage and Big Apple upbringing. “I think this area is ready for what we offer,” says Gucciardo, a restaurant industry veteran of 35 years. The dinner menu at Nico’s offers an array of beef, chicken, veal, and fresh fish dishes that will entice the most ardent patron. Begin your meal with a selection of appetizers such as grilled eggplant stuffed with goat cheese topped with caramelized onions; or crisp Calamari Fritti with a rich tomato sauce. I recommend the Mussels Posillipo, which are steamed and enveloped in a savory garlic broth.

The entrees include a few that may challenge the less-adventurous eater, like the Rabbit Cacciatore—a traditional Italian dish—it is simmered in a marinara sauce with onions and herbs. But Chef Gucciardo offers something for everyone. The Salsiccia and Peppers is a delicious Italian sausage smothered with caramelized onions and roasted red peppers. My wife Joan raved about the Penne Sofia, which is sautéed eggplant in a sauce of fresh tomato and toasted pine nuts combined with garlic, olive oil, mozzarella, and parmigiano cheese. I anticipate eagerly my next visit to Nico’s to indulge in other dishes such as the Ribeye Esposito—a delectable, 16 oz. ribeye sprinkled with rock salt and black pepper and then chargrilled; Nico’s Veal Chop; or any of their other plentiful pasta or seafood entrees. And when I dine at Nico’s again, I’ll be sure to re-order the Panzerotte, a potato cake filled with mozzarella cheese and fried golden brown.

Gucciardo encourages patrons to order family style—the true Italian way. Just let your server know what foods and flavors intrigue you, and Nico’s will prepare large, mouth-watering dishes for a group to share.   

Nico’s makes a perfect spot for those busy people working downtown who want a quick and delicious lunch, or better yet, are trying to win over a hard-to-crack business client. The lunch menu offers Italian classics like calzones and gourmet pizzas as well as a sausage and peppers hero, the Italian cold cut sub, and a chicken parmagiana hero. Nico’s also serves delicious salads, plus lunch entrees featuring homemade lasagna, veal parmagiana, chicken marsala, and stuffed shells florentina.

A room is available in the back of the restaurant for private parties for up to a dozen people. Just call ahead to clue in the staff about your party.

I hesitate writing about new restaurants because it takes a few months for owners to work out the kinks, and many restaurateurs make changes in their first few months to adapt to guests’ needs and desires. “Once we get a feel from our customers we will branch out,” says Gucciardo, admitting that there may be some changes in the future. Nevertheless, it’s obvious that Puglieses’ and Gucciardo’s extensive experiences have limited the potential for snafus at Nico’s; it was smooth sailing during my visit, and word on the street is that patrons’ experiences have been consistently good.

Nico’s has already earned hordes of fans in the Roanoke area. Gucciardo, who at one time owned the Pine Tavern in Floyd, says “between Joe and me, we have a following from our previous restaurants.” I’ll bet my euro that Nico’s will become extremely popular—so just call ahead at 540.342.444 to avoid a potential wait list.

Nico’s is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 am until 10 pm; they are closed Sunday and Monday. Nico’s has a full service bar and according to Gucciardo, “a selection of Italian wines that others don’t have.” The website , to be up and running soon, is www.nicosroanoke.com.